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Woodworking FaqWoodworking FAQ

Woodworking FAQ

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20 COMMENTS

  1. I haven’t had any issues with dealing the edges, bc you should always scuff them up before pouring to allow the bond you need. If you seal the edge, then don’t scuff it up, it will separate.

  2. You say you cool the resin down to 59 degrees, but the temp.on the label says 69 degrees.Can you explain?THANKS.

  3. Do you warm your resin first to decrease the viscosity and then cool it as it is curing or do you just keep it cool from the start? Also how does your process account for getting rid of bubbles? I haven’t seen that answered in any of the videos yet. GREAT CHANNEL!

  4. Can u please answer me for following
    1.What is life of epoxy table
    2.Does all epoxy always become yellow in some time.
    3.can we use any type of seasoned wood for table top
    4. What is best and easy way to flattening the wood slab.
    5. After making table top is there possibly of wood bending or dishapeing , if yes then how to control it.

  5. A good way to measure volume is to use plastic ping pong balls.
    Or plastic beads depending on the size of the job.

    You'd simply pour the ping pong balls into the gaps and then put them all in a bucket and weigh them.

    Then knowing the volume of each ball you can approximately calculate the amount of resin needed.

    Also you caould buy the cheapest possible epoxy and build a pressurized cell and you could do super thick slabs as you wanted.

    There are many variants on the epoxy formula as you just need an epoxide functional group on one molecule and then the hydrogen linkage on the hardener.

    I'm thinking the pressurised cell would be a way to use the most basic and affordable epoxy and get them to work well on thick slabs..

    I studied a ext mj in chemistry at uni

    hope this helps…

  6. I'm new to epoxy art. I hope this isn't a stupid question. Could you tell me why there's a one-to-one ratio and a one-to-two ratio and why would you choose one over the other? What would be the purpose? Thank you

  7. Great info thanks I’m trialing with resil of 1 lt to 8 ml of Gardner have u guys used this stuff it’s a lot cheaper and am realizing I’ll need to do a couple of pours as it gets hot and can crack but doesn’t in shallow pours so I guess it’s due to the heat still very hard and very clear cheers guys great work from Australia 🇦🇺

  8. Thank Dylan. Great video. Wanted to say I have often reviewed and re-reviewed your videos so thanks for being such a great teacher. Also, thanks so much for showing me around the shop when I was in Calgary. I felt like I was with a celebrity. hahah.

  9. When you do a pour, does the epoxy penetrate to the under side of any wood that is a part of the progect

  10. Hi, thanks for sharing! You've got an amazing business and skills!
    I'm about to finish a huge Parota slab as part of my kitchen countertop (using oil) and I have so many questions:
    Q1: Do you do water popping before applying finish to get a more consistent result?
    Q2: How do you sand and apply finish? How many coat and how many passes of sanding at which grain?
    Q3: Did you try Prato Verde Secondo oil?
    Q4:Do you use a hand planer to finish table surfaces and if not why?

  11. Do you find that your finish is good for the life of the table or do you recommend to your client that it will need a fresh coat reapplied every few years?

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